property:development:containers:home

Property:Development:Containers

* P = m/s^2 * 0.6 * F = P * A * drag coefficient

  • For a 20' container:
    • (8×2.5m = 40sq.m)
  • For 40km/h ⇒ 40000 / 3600s/h = 11m/s
  • For 45km/h ⇒ 45000 / 3600s/h = 12.5m/s
  • For 47km/h ⇒ 48000 / 3600s/h = 13.05m/s
  • For 48km/h ⇒ 48000 / 3600s/h = 13.3m/s
  • For 50km/h ⇒ 50000 / 3600s/h = 14m/s
  • Fd = cd 1/2 ρ v2 A
    • 2.1 * 0.5 * (1.2kg/m3 * (13m/s^2 * 40m2))
    • 4.939.2 Newtons
  • Cd = Coefficient of Drag (for a flat surface such as a container it would be 0.6)
    • 0.6 * 0.5 * (1.2kg/m3 * (13m/s^2 * 40m2))
    • 2,433.6
  • Fd = A * P
    • 20m2 * (13^2 * 0.6)
    • 2,028 Newtons
  • Won't turn it over. But able to move it.
  • Note: Although provided by others, I don't know how it got to 0.6:

Containers are cold. Or hot. But either way, not comfortable for living.

Insulation is required. But you have to work around the dew point.

The accepted best solution involves first spraying EPS foam on the inside of the container. But you have to own it, rather than rent it, to be able to stick muck all over it. Then frame in front of it.

You can insulate the walls with solid EPS sheets – but the dewpoint will be at the wall, and will be running down with water behind the EPS sheets.

There's also bubble wrap based solutions: https://www.ipak.co.nz/shop/Insulation+Products/Shipping+Container+Insulation+Kits/ But other than being ugly, hanging there, non-stretchable, bubble wrap has contact points, so … I'm unsure as to whether its a solution. Or a stop-gap.

Same for if you framed the interior with thin EPS foam battens and then stretched over them a Polythene film over the framing. It's maybe the cheapest solution. But there's condensation on the wall behind the sheet of film to sort out. Hard to deal with. The EPS battens are slightly better insulation that wood battens, and can be stuck on with double sided tape, which makes them acceptable for rented containers (relatively easy to clean up before returning).

The film should be .75 millimeters thick (.05 thicker than average), and made of heat-shrinkable but here's one for .50mm

This has better dimensions, and is thicker (much). It's also not transparent, which is even better in this case, at least until you have own and punch light/windows

As for wondering how loose/tight things can be/will become:

“Cases of water bottles and canned goods are commonly wrapped with a polyethylene bundling film. After heat is applied, polyethylene still offers elasticity for puncture resistance, and up to a 20% shrink rate.” Src

Again, back to the EPS batts. Maybe the following is even easier to put up to get some air gap between the metal walls and the stretched film, while the gap is not too deep (losing less space, and slightly less of a chance of someone putting a hand through it and/or stretching it out):

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001980408747.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.6dcb284dFChyng&algo_pvid=bd61c4c4-8644-4e37-ae1b-823fe588d743&algo_exp_id=bd61c4c4-8644-4e37-ae1b-823fe588d743-56&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000022260051147%22%7D&pdp_pi=-1%3B4.22%3B-1%3B1.39%40salePrice%3BNZD%3Bsearch-mainSearch

An alternate is to go for a Non functioning refrigerated (NOR) container. It has insulation. It's not great, but its better than bare steel (bar the steel rather than ply deck you have to walk on – might cost you some plywood sheeting to sort that out). If it's not good enough insulation, consider falling back to installing bubble wrap, film, or even EPS panels over the interior. The due point issue might be a non-issue at that point. We'll see.

And if you're living in a container, it's sort of a

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uY5EnMlDluA

Now that you're ready to consider one:

Having a Reefer doesn't stop you from also insulating the interior further with EPS sheets, etc, or poly film.

Assuming you own the reefer, and can modify it, its good to see that they're even more structural than standard containers (see Comments on this page).

…are expensive! Even secondhand. And the odds of them being appropriately sized are…nil. So…remembering that they shrinkwrap scaffolding to survive the worst weather, and remembering that 3M sells film kits to “double glaze” your old single ply windows.. there's another option.

  • Window insulation film is usually made of polyethylene teraphthalate (PET)
  • PETG is same PET, with added Glycol, which makes it clearer, less hazing, crystalization, less brittle, more rubbery, but more susceptible to sunlight

The dimensions needed are:

THe downside is that most scaffolding wrap is white. Not natural/transparent.

But I finally found one:

https://www.shrinkwrapsupplies.co.nz/collections/films-1/products/2-x-50-clear-250-nz

Cost for double that I need (I need approx 2m x (3x4x2) =24m is…

Waiting to hear back about cost.

Alternative source is:

which I did check, and it is shrinkwrapable (but 200mu, instead of 250mu) but they stated that as it was clear it would survive sunlight less well (think 6-12 months).

Moving: Still looking for a complete (ie: don't have to also go buy tires), all terrain, capable, affordable solution to moving them. Something like:

Gotta checkout the doors mentioned here: * https://www.discovercontainers.com/container-accessory-attachments/

Bar the pain of shipping, the following appears to be lowest cost in NZ: * https://www.stanleywelding.com.au/shipping-container-wheels Tried alibaba. Solid wheels, stronger, but Ouch. About $1000/wheel. Min 4. Before shipping, which was another $1000.

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  • Last modified: 2024/01/03 18:28
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