Property:Development:Construction:Siding

* patterns:

• clapboard: the simplest horizontal siding, with simple boards overlay-ed over each other.
• lap patterns: allow for overlapping boards, using rabbets on alternative sides, a thining of the bottom board so that it fits into an upper board's rabbet.
  • dutch lap: a more modern, flush, look than clapboard. Flat with an angle at its top so that it can slide under the board above it.

* Board and Batten: boards whose vertical seams are covered with battens (thin strips of wood). Board can be plywood (although there's a class action in NZ going no against this approach that failed pretty miserably). * Wood strip siding: strips beside each other (as oppossed to lapped). Can be tongue and grooved. * Stucco: least expensive material, but requires more labour to attach it to foam or fibre cement boards. * Yakisuga-ita: flame-thrown wooden siding¹⁾. * soffit: located on the span beneath the rafter tails. Along with fascias, used to keep out elements, birds, and insects - and hide ventilation. * fascia: located on the exposed horizontal band at the end of the rafters.

• TBD.

• “Metal/steel siding usually costs about $20 more than vinyl siding per every hundred square foot.”²⁾ (but that's not really that much) while more resistant (than PVC) to warping, thermal expansion etc.
• Fibre boards contain cancer-causing agents (silica)³⁾.
• Membrane:
  • Advantages:
    • One of the lowest cost ceilings.
    • Designed for flat roofs.
    • Due to ease of manipulation and fixing, can be a DIY product⁴⁾.

      • Considerations:
        • https://www.improvenet.com/r/costs-and-prices/membrane-roofing
        • Black Absorbs heat (not a bad thing).
      • Disadvantages:
        • Can easily be punctured (eg: during delivery, or later by falling branch…although Oriental Bay has a couple, right beside trees…)
        • Hard to challenging to find location of any leak⁵⁾.

      * PVC:

  • Advantages:
    • Colour is throughout, therefore does not repainting.
  • Considerations:
    • Thermal expansion, UV damage, is higher than metal sidings etc.
    • Cost:
  • Disadvantages:
    • Not suitable for repainting to a different colour.
• Metal/Aluminum:
  • Advantages:
  • Considerations:
    • Cost: $35-$45/sq.m (US) ⁶⁾
  • Disadvantages:
    • Oxydizes to a white chalky finish.
• Metal/Steel:
  • Advantages:
  • Considerations:
    • Cost: About a 1/3 more than aluminum siding.
      • (US) $40-$80/sq.m ⁷⁾
    • May not be best for high-wind zones⁸⁾.
    • Heavier than aluminum, needs a couple of people to manage it correctly, so not exactly a DIY product.
    • Needs repainting every couple of years (but so do most things).
    • More expensive than PVC.
• Hardboard/Pressboard/Masonite:
  • Advantages:
    • …was cheaper than vinyl or anything else⁹⁾.
  • Considerations:
    • …
  • Disadvantages:
    • Doesn't last and can be a ticking bomb in humid environments¹⁰⁾¹¹⁾.
• Hardieboard/Fiber-Concrete Board:
  • Advantages:
    • Lasts forever (or 50 years). So if you can afford it it lasts longer than other products.
    • Good in wind¹²⁾.
  • Considerations:
    • Really heavy, slowing installation, rising cost.
    • Needs to be painted every 15 years or so ¹³⁾.
    • Costs vary wildly between products so hard to be firm on final cost.
    • Cost: $100/m2¹⁴⁾. Not cheap up front.
  • Disadvantages:
    • Heavy and needs care to not damage panels. This slows installation and causes a need for experienced crews. Not a DIY material.
    • Needs experienced crew to handle it correctly¹⁵⁾.
    • Probably not appropriate for budget homes.
• Zinc:
  • Advantages:
    • Lasts a long time.
  • Considerations:
    • Not as expensive as copper, but far more than steel.
    • Cost: (US) $150-$250/m2 ¹⁶⁾
  • Disadvantages:
• Copper Siding:
  • Advantages:
    • Very lightweight, so easier to work with.
    • Never corrodes.
  • Cost: (US): 250-350/m2 ¹⁷⁾
  • Cost: $70-$90/sq.m. (US)¹⁸⁾
  • Disadvantages:
    • Cannot afford in this lifetime.

It's very easy to get US costings from the web. NZ is a totally different story.

• Metalcraft told me the following:
  • Corrugated:
    • Roofs: $65/m2 installed
    • Walls: $120/m2 installed, of which $30-35 is the material, and $85/m2 is the labour (dealing with multiple openings and flashing).
  • Obviously things get more expensive from there for more modern profiles (but most of the cost is labour…)

• TBD

Specifications to keep in mind include:

• TBD.

* Stone:

• https://www.craftstone.co.nz/gallery/

* Aluminum cladding:

• https://flashclad.co.nz/cladding/eurobord/ (nice)
• http://www.nuwall.co.nz/
• http://www.ulltraclad.co.nz/cladding-profiles.php#shadoline

* Colorsteel steel based cladding:

• https://www.metalcraftgroup.co.nz/contact/

* Specialist metals:

• https://www.classicmetal.co.nz/design

* Steel Siding:

• Nicer profiles: Eurostyle Epic in Snaplock profile by Roofing Industries
• http://roof.co.nz/products/eurostyle-67

Cost comparison over a lifetime. Alum appears cheapest for sidings¹⁹⁾.

DIY'ers will need to consider the following tools:

• TBD

• https://www.metalcraftgroup.co.nz/contact/